Cycling Loaded:
I’ve wanted a new cycling challenge for a while and in the last few months Steve and I have decided to do a New Zealand cycling trip. I rode across Canada on a supported trip in 2003 and was looking for something similar. A bare basics trip where people work together to get the necessities met but do not have to carry their own gear. Well, couldn’t find anything similar so decided unless we wanted to pay tons of money, we’d better think about carrying our own gear. This trip was a challenge to see how we could do riding together, fully loaded, totally dependant on each other.Day 1 Westbank to Armstrong 102km
Well, almost didn’t even get started today. The plan for this trip was to take all our gear on the Bob trailer and maybe a pair of panniers for extras. I, of course, was confident that I could handle the Bob no problem even though the only experience I had was about 5 km on “The Galloping Goose” outside Victoria. My friend, Rick, in Australia, had warned me of its challenges and that I should go on some test rides, but I thought I’d adjust on the trip. Well, we loaded all our gear and realized we’d need the Bob plus both set of panniers. That’s fine, on they went (one set on each bike) and then it was time for a test around the neighbourhood. Well, I was devastated. I could barely steer the bike and I was going to ride this thing for 600km!! I was holding back tears as I came back from my cul-de sac loop. Maybe, we should pare down on gear, Steve said, and just take one set of panniers on his bike. It proved a little better but still felt hugely unstable on my bikeFinally, Steve suggested that he take his bike (with no granny) the Bob and a rear set of panniers. I could ride it up the hills and he’d do the flat and downhill. With some reluctance on my part, we were off. Got to the bridge (about 12 km away) and Steve said the panniers on the Bob bike had to go (just not stable enough). So off we went looking for a bike store to get a mount for the front panniers (being carried on the Bob bike) so I could carry both set of panniers on my bike. By this time it is about 10:30, and we’d done about 15km. Finally, in the snare of Kelowna summertime traffic, found a bike store with a wonderful mechanic who spent about 30 minutes mounting the pannier mount on the front brazons. He also suggested a good route out of town that would avoid all the busy highway traffic. On the road out of town, got a good rhythm going, I’d take the Bob up hills and Steve the other sections. Was getting more comfortable but still couldn’t handle the down hills and straight sections. Took a short stop at Steve’s aunt and uncle’s summer place for some lunch and were back on the road by 1:00, having covered all of 40kms!!!
The route the mechanic suggested to go was a nice route, with lovely view of Wood Lake and little traffic; however, it involved a lot of climbing on a fairly steep grade. By this time, it is about 38 degrees and getting warmer!!! We made it up the Oyama hill, Steve pulling the Bob most of the way, although he had to walk it for about 500meters (with no granny, just too tough for those grades!!) Eventually, Steve felt his knee, the hill into Vernon, headwind and heat are taking its toll on both of us. However, we decide to push on through Vernon and onto Armstrong. The last 20km should have been better but seemed tougher. I spent progressively more time with the Bob. Finally, Armstrong, cheese capital of B.C., emerges in the distance. Armstrong seems to be a bit of a dying town although, I think, cheese keeps it in business. It is in a nice little valley but really no industry save ranching and, of course, cheese.
Found the Kinsmen park campsite and set up the tent. Lesson #1; it’s nice to have a large tenet with a huge vestibule in which to hide the bikes but it is bloody heavy to carry. Sometimes you have to sacrifice convenience and comfort for weight.
Anyway, we set up, got clean and set out in search of food. My sister, Elizabeth, had a University friend whose family owned a fairly decent Chinese restaurant. Alas, they are closed Tuesdays. The Greek place also reputed to be good is closed so it’s off to the local pub. Happened to find a great ice cream stand on the way, which cooled us down and abated some hunger pains (note to self: towns that make good cheese, make good ice cream). By the time we got to the pub, I could have eaten my arm so we sat back and enjoyed the “ambience” of the place. That is, until the local band got up on stage and decided to do a Jefferson Airplane imitation. What they lacked in talent, they made up for the volume and sheer guile. Time to make a quick exit. Back at the campsite, the RV next to us had their T.V. blaring, so much for serenity. Well, the sun was close to setting; a few card games, some reading and off to bed. Magically, just before we retired, a six-point buck appeared.
Day 2 Armstrong to Yard Creek 72km
Woke up before daybreak and had what would become a familiar breakfast, protein drink and granola bar. Space had been sacrificed when we reloaded in Westbank so we didn’t have room for much food. Got on the road early but traffic was already brisk. Beautiful morning, however, the road wound around ranch land, dry and mostly flat and the views were quite spectacular.One down point about ditching the stove in Westbank was that I didn’t have access to early morning coffee. So, stopped at a gas station/convenience store just north of the turn off 97B. It was weird, the place seemed strangely familiar. Then I realized I had stopped here for a break during my 2003 tour. I remember that day well because I had thought I’d ride with Rick and Amy but they took off without me. Granted, I hadn’t rode with them for a few days but still!! Anyway, as I was resting at that store, who should cycle by but Rick and Amy so I did get to ride with them after all.
Was a good ride into Sicamous; less traffic and the ride around Mara Lake was lovely. Kept waiting for the climbs but they never materialized. Good thing, Steve’s knee still wasn’t 100% and he was agitating to stop at Sicamous. I wanted to push through to Revelstoke. Arrived at Sicamous at about 10:00 and decided to check out the visitor’s centre. Who should be the only other person there but a young cyclist from Quebec, loaded up worse than us, on his way to Calgary from Vancouver. He was a charming chap- full of anecdotes and enthusiasm-and the fact he was drop dead gorgeous didn’t hurt, either.
It was at Sicamous that the art of compromising and negotiating start to play for us. I couldn’t see stopping at 10:00 for the day but Steve didn’t want to push it to Revelstoke and it looked like there was few campsites in between. I couldn’t remember what the grades were like from 2003 but can’t remember the ride being too difficult. Of course, when you are carrying gear, things are totally different. We decided to get some supplies and a hot meal than go as far as Yard Creek. That would mean a long day to Halcyon the next day but it would give Steve time to nurse his knee. Found a great campsite close to the Highway (they all are) that had a pool and a hot tub!! Can’t beat that! The guy that owned it was very affable and chatty. So far, we found people were drawn to us and would easily engage us in conversation. Something about carrying your own gear that fascinates people. Never got this much response in the TDC trip.
Spent the rest of the day lounging in the pool, and hot tub and exploring creek near by. Then a typical dinner; cooked sausage, bread and veggies.
Day 3 Yard Creek to Halcyon Hot Springs 125km
Tough day physically, the biggest challenge so far. Luckily the road and scenery was worth it all. Rode the Trans Canada from our campground into Revelstoke. Again, was reminiscent of an earlier trip. Remember I rode with Des and Sam (my cook mates in 2003). Did not stop at Craigellachie this time as I know the story and “the last spike” is impossible to find. The road was really good, nice wide shoulders and pretty flat. The area around Three-Valley Gap always takes my breath away, it is almost surreal.Got into Revelstoke by 9:00 and set out in search of coffee and supplies. Found a great bakery and had a “second breakfast” although I could hardly call a granola bar a first. Steve didn’t think we should buy groceries, but I insisted, as Route 23 (to the south) was looking pretty barren. Turned out to be a good call.
Revelstoke was swarming with tourists, as it is the gateway to the Rockies as well as a jumping point for exploring Mt Revelstoke National Park. Beautiful setting on the Columbia with the mountains looming in the background.
Went into town in search of the visitor’s centre and to book our campsite at Halcyon. We weren’t sure how long it would take but knew that if it were booked, cycling to Nakusp would be a stretch. The woman at the visitor’s centre assured us there were a lot of amenities along the route; food, water etc. Lesson number 2: If you have to choose, trust the locals over the people who man the visitor’s centre.
Route 23 is a beautiful highway with very little traffic. It starts just west of Revelstoke and goes the length of the Arrow Lakes. A fair amount of climbing and descending but not too bad. Got lots of beautiful glimpses of the lake as well as the mountains surrounding. The day was proving to be hot but had a nice breeze, which made it doable. We had filled up with water at Revelstoke and were carrying about nine litres between the two of us. Steve had found that if he salted his water in his camelback and filled his water bottles with protein powder and Gatorade, he didn’t cramp up. Unfortunately, we ran out of water by the time we reached the ferry at Shelter Bay. No amenities on the way and at the ferry rest centre, there was a boil water advisory. Thank god I had picked up groceries because we were getting hungry as well. Luckily the BC Ferries crew had a water cooler and let us fill up. As we waited for the ferry, people came up and looked at are bikes in amazement. People were genuinely interested in us and in our trip. On the ferry, a fellow from Switzerland hung out with us and just talked about all the beautiful places to hike, cycle and camp. He’d been in Canada about a month and had seen more of the Rockies and the backcountry than I have seen my whole life! He’s planning the West Coast trail the end of August so may see him on his way through Victoria.
Upon reaching the other side, we decided we were so hot; I’d take a dip in the lake. COLD, COLD, COLD; but so refreshing. Then sat on a rock and ate our sausage, carrot and spinach lunch.
Steve was feeling a little worn out and again his knee was bugging him. The heat was making me weary and because we were in such desolate country, Steve had concerns about bears. I was taking the Bob more often and it was staring to wear me down. We had decided by this point that we’d stay a day in Halcyon to recover, give Steve’s knee a rest and relax. We just had 30km to go. It’s not like we could stop anywhere, as there was nothing but road and bush. Finally, after what seemed like an eternity, we arrived at Halcyon. We quickly booked massages for the next day, set up tent then set our weary bones into the Hot Spring pools. Took a reprieve for dinner (with beer, of course) then spent the rest of the evening under the stars in the pools gazing at the mountains and glaciers in the distance. Life really is grand!!!
Day 4 Halcyon Hot Springs Rest Day
Our food we had bought in Revelstoke had been devoured yesterday and we were down to two granola bars. That’s fine; we’d just eat at the restaurant, which was pretty good and reasonable. The only thing is we woke up at 5:30 and the restaurant and pools didn’t open until 8:00. Decided to wander down to the lake. Couldn’t walk too far on account of Steve’s knee but just sitting on the rocks, checking out the osprey circling for fish and relaxing was worth it. Spent most of the morning in the pools relaxing and reading. They have this cold pool at 55F and I’d immerse myself in that then jump into the hottest pool. Every inch of my body would tingle; it was just such a great feeling. Hard for me to just sit all day in the pools but luckily I had brought a great book “The River King” and finished it off that day.After lunch, we wandered down to the Lake which is breathtakingly beautiful and which we had to ourselves. I was immersed in my book but I knew something was bugging Steve, he looked so forlorn sitting on the rocks, by himself. Selfishly, I didn’t go to him; I was getting I little irritated with him as I thought he was always holding me back but finally decided to initiate conversation. We had a really good talk; he indicated that he was troubled that I’d go into things head first, push myself and he felt put into the position of being picking up the pieces if something went wrong. His whole life, people rely on him to solve problems and he always weighs the consequences before he does something. We were in a bit of unchartered territory here 300km from home and we still had the Monashees looming, I was so focused of completing the ride that I wasn’t really seeing the whole picture. For the last couple of days, people would look at us incredulously when we said we were crossing the Monashees especially with Steve’s bike (no granny, carrying the Bob). What would happen if Steve’s knee failed or we couldn’t do it? I was determined not to call Mom and Dad to pick us up (just too arduous a trip for them and they and just done a whirlwind tip to Biggar, Sask-Mom’s home town). So we sorted things out; we’d take it easy and if we couldn’t do the Monashees, we’d just hitchhike home. The trip was not just a means to an end; we were supposed to be enjoying ourselves too. It was time for me to do an attitude readjustment.
Headed back to the resort to get our professional massages. Jeremy was great!!; I was having a bit of soreness in my lower back and he definitely got to the root of the problem. He worked miracles on Steve; Steve’s IT band was so tight, it was causing all the problems with his knee. After his massage, he felt like a new man and was looking forward to the next three days cycling. Had a good feed, more hot springs and went to bed refreshed, relaxed and satiated.
Day 5 Halcyon Hot Springs to Fauquier 92km
Our bodies refreshed, we were ready for the second half of the journey. Felt a little cautious as we had been hearing stories of the Monashees since we got to Halcyon - you know, steep, difficult, need good gearing!!! However, Steve’s knee was good and despite a bit of lethargy (hormonally induced) I was feeling good. The ride to Nakusp was more of the same along the Arrow lakes pretty gentle; a few gradual ups and downs. Nixed the idea of going to Nakusp Hot Springs since it was 12 km UP a gravel road. Decided to stop at Nakusp to load up on groceries, buy bear spray and take in breakfast. Nakusp is a beautiful town on the shores of the Arrow Lakes and full of motorcyclists. Later, we found out route 6 is a much travelled road for motorcyclists and rated one of the best roads in North America. Found a great little Mexican restaurant which served a mean Huevos Rancheros. Just as we were about to leave I saw a tall cyclist walking down the street and who should it be but Hans from Victoria. He, Ken, Jerry and a few others were doing a two-week cycle (supported) through the Kootenays. They looked at our bikes and just shook their heads. Anyway, our spirits were elevated to see someone from home. Walked around the town a bit and bought groceries then back on the road again.This day the road was pretty flat and we decided to let Steve take the lead. He found that if he set the pace, he wouldn’t be at risk of injuring himself by trying to keep up. Good strategy; allowed me to look around a bit more and just enjoy the ride. Beautiful ride down the Arrow Lakes; tons of Osprey nests on telephone poles and spotted quite a few. Ran into a couple of older English women on bikes cycling to a local beach on the lakes. Traffic was pretty thin so could really enjoy the ride. Stopped in at a small town, Burton not too far north of Fauquier and had an ice cream and pit stop. Again, local knowledge prevailed. The campsite we were thinking of staying at across the Lake at Needles was intermittently open and 2km down a very gravely road. Since the ferries left at 5:45 each morning, we decided to stay at Fauquier then get an early morning start.
The campsite at Fauquier, Tuk a Luk was absolutely perfect!! A hidden oasis on the side of the highway run by a very eccentric perimenopausal woman. Max, her Samoyd/Wolf cross, greeted us, growled a bit a Steve’s flag and led us to Gloria (what a fitting name). Anyway, Gloria and her husband bought this beautiful piece of land several years ago, and she has been creating a little paradise with it ever since. Has a beautiful large garden, in which we helped ourselves to raspberries and cucumbers. The campsite is filled with little whimsical touches; an old stove with flowers growing out of it, a lovely little bench and chairs down by the stream…. It was the tonic we both needed and we had it almost all to ourselves!!! We relaxed most of the afternoon until it was time for dinner. Decided to head in early for bed, as we wanted to tackle the Monashees as early as possible. Just before bed we were serenaded by an orchestra of coyotes in the distance; a truly haunting sound.
Day 6 Fauquier to Lumby 112km
I think we were the first people down at the ferry docks. We knew this was going to be a challenging day as everyone we had met on the way so far shook their heads in disbelief when we told them of our plans, The first several kms climb out of the ferry dock at Needles, I was beginning to believe them. I took the Bob trailer and went straight up a very steep 4 km hill!!! My breathing was very laboured but I knew if I stopped, that would be it!! After about 2 km, I wondered if the ascent was going to be like this the whole way. Steve was concerned about bears and the fact I started menstruating a few days before did little to alleviate his concern. Yup, I’m sure I’d be a magnet for every bear this side of the Monashees waiting on the side of the road to attack. Oh well, he’s encountered way more bears in the bush than I have and we had seen bear scat on the side of the road on the way to Halcyon. Anyway, we had steep hills and bearanoia but, thankfully, after about 2-3kms, the grade was gentler. It turned out to be a lovely ride; absolutely no traffic or settlements, a bit of ranching country but really nice grades. After about 30km, who should we encounter at the side of the road, another pair of cyclists- one toting a Bob trailer and another with panniers. Nice couple from Kelowna who had drove out to Cherryville to ride the pass the day before, camp overnight (where they had seen a black bear) and return the next day. Rode with them for about 5km as they told us horror stories about the last 10km to the top.We had made good time by then and if we had to walk 10km, well so be it (of course that would make it easier to be ambushed by a bear!!) The couple had slowed down, so we had a bite then prepared ourselves for the ascent. By this time, the road, which had been in good condition with really wide shoulders (God knows why, there was no traffic whatsoever), had narrowed and we were going up. I kept on asking Steve if he wanted me to take the Bob but he said we’d wait until we got to the hard part. Well, pretty soon, it looked like the telephone wires were no longer going up, they were going down and we realized we were over the top. I was so proud of Steve, except for the first bit in the morning, he did the Monashees!!! What a joy going down; long leisurely ride down hill; I was looking for the summit as we had heard (since Halcyon) that there was a great place that served cinnamon buns and coffee (in the middle of nowhere) 7km from the summit. Well, little did I know that a summit is actually the highest pass between two peaks NOT the highest point. Finally, we arrived only to see the sign that the restaurant was closed due to septic field difficulties. We talked ourselves into a cup of coffee and the world’s largest cinnamon bun; celebrating having made the pass. Basically, it would be mostly downhill from here all the way to Kelowna.
It seemed much drier this side of the Monashees and we were now well into ranching and cattle country. Slowly, traffic picked up and we decided to stop at the campground in Cherryville to check it out. It just seemed too dry and the restaurant too hot and crowded so we decided to press on. Were basically out of food so stopped into an eclectic little hippy restaurant, which served really good food. Cherryville is a bit of a hippy/artsy community, nestled into the banks of the Shushwap River. Seems like lots of good energy there (maybe due to the abundance of healing and retreat centres). Unfortunately, no accommodations were to be found so Steve and I made a deal that if we pressed on to Lumby, we could stay in a hotel. The rest of the trip was uneventful; one last big hill and by this time it was about 35 degrees.
The first thing we did upon arriving in Lumby was to check out the local ice cream establishment. Steve enquired about a hotel with a pool and hot tub, and the toothless clerk replied, incredulously, “in Lumby???” We settled on the only choice, a lovely little suite with wallpaper falling off the walls but, hey, it was a bed and we didn’t have to set up the tent. Decided to take in a little T.V. and after ¾ of an hour channel surfing to no avail, I understand why I hate T.V. It almost would have been better camping.
Oh well, early to bed, early to rise for the last leg of our journey.
Day 7 Lumby to Westbank 89km
We woke up at about 4:00 ready for the day. Unfortunately it wasn’t light until 6:00 but, luckily, there was a bakery/deli in town that opened at 5:00!! What luck, I could have my coffee before we got on the road!The place was hopping!!-lots of forest industry workers, maybe?? Was a pretty ride going out of town but hard to get used to the busier (by comparison) traffic. The hills were rolling and lots of little valleys. We had our first taste of poor professional drivers when a garbage truck that passed us and cut in quickly lost his lunch cooler into the ditch – proving God cycles. Missed the turn that would have bypassed all of the Vernon traffic and we were now into the aggressiveness of Okanagan driving. It made it a little difficult to enjoy the view but the Okanagan hills are beautiful, especially at dawn, and often you would get wide views of the expanse of the valley.
Just out of Vernon, I got my first flat in a long time. New tires, but, unfortunately, it was a staple. Fixed that and then moved on towards Oyama. Kalamalka Lake is truly beautiful (the lake of many colours) but the traffic was pretty intense. As we got to lake level, all vestiges of shoulder disappeared and we were basically with pretty fast flowing traffic. The stretch between Vernon and Kelowna proved to have the poorest professional drivers either of us has ever encountered. It was okay until we got to Winfield where traffic was two lanes but absolutely no shoulder. Steve and I have a continuing conversation about how much lane we should take. I tend to take the more cautious approach but Steve says that if a vehicle can’t pass you safely, they shouldn’t be passing. Consequently, he tends to ride about a meter from the side of the road. This tends to frustrate/infuriate some drivers and, I think, can make one a target. Well, getting into Winfield we are on this two-lane highway with no shoulder and a semi with a tandem trailer tries to pass us without moving over one iota. Steve had no place to go and the vehicle came within inches of him. I was behind and thought my heart would stop. That was it, I said, we are taking the lane. Steve, meanwhile, fumed the whole way home and vowed not to spend a penny in this valley.
Got off the highway as soon as we could but really just wanted to get to Mom and Dad’s, away from the rednecks. We’d ridden this part of the road before so it was pretty uneventful. Getting home was, in a way, anti climatic, the last day was the most harrowing of the trip (due to traffic), and the real joy was cresting the summit the day before.
Turning into the driveway, though, I felt great elation that we had done it, supported each other, worked through our difficulties and came out stronger and more committed to each other.
Melissa
Kelowna - Revelstoke - Nakusp
circle route
Arrow lake ferry
Shelter Bay to Galena Bay
Arrow lake ferry
Shelter Bay to Galena Bay
Arrow lake ferry
Steve with Swiss adventurer
Evening on Arrow lake
Halcyon Hotsprings
Evening on Arrow lake
Halcyon Hotsprings
Melissa at the Monashee summit
Steve at the Monashee summit
