Day 1; [27 January 2006;PST] Steve
Day started with a light breakfast with Ann and Pete. Doug drove us to the airport. After Steve had a massage to eliminate his "mover's back", Melissa treated herself to a pedicure to ensure her feet would be in cinnamon shape for riding. The flight to SF was uneventful as was the layover.

Day 2; [28 January 2006;PST] Mel
Well, we are finally in Kiwiland, excited but sleep deprived. I managed to sleep in fits and starts while Steve watched three movies and slept for 10 minutes!!! He just did his Qigong and is revitalized. I hate him! The last few days have been so much sitting and waiting, if I weren't damn tired, I'd be stir crazy! Resting and stretching in Auckland while we wait for our flight to Christchurch.


We were delighted to have Gordon meet us at the airport despite wearing a Scottish tam of appalling bad taste. Both he and Libby are delightful people and have gone out of their way to us feel at home. We were so exhausted but they prepared a lovely lunch with fresh tomato and basil sandwiches and just let us relax the afternoon. Gordon then insisted we get out to at least stretch our legs and took up the Port Hills, a very precipitous climb along a narrow road to a lovely spot, the Station of the Kiwi where the took a 20 minute wander down the hill. It was a beautiful afternoon and we took in gorgeous views of Lyttletown harbour. After driving, I was convinced that it probably was a good idea that we not ride as the hills were very steep and narrow. When one drives along Summit Road, you are essentially driving on the top of an ancient crater. The Summit Roads were the brainchild of a man called Harry Ell who envisaged a series of walks through the peninsula with rest stations along the way the first being the Station of the Kiwi.

We came home, got organized and then were treated to a feast of lamb, sausages, venison, beef, Gordon’s potatoes and tomatoes and fresh beans followed by a delicious chocolate cake by Libby. Satiated and wined, we were ready for bed, Steve being up for about 37 hours.
Day 3; Steve
After my first night of sleep, meditation and Qigong, Gordon served up a light breakfast. We followed this with a 41 km warm up ride out to Tai Tapu and back. Getting used to the left side riding is easier than I had thought, Melissa is still wary. I managed to get us lost 2 X!

Gordon and Libby took us on a guided picnic of Banks Peninsula and Akaroa. Gordon is somewhat of an expert, having written books and done many guided tours. Pictures will better describe the area. We stopped at a little cheese maker on the return trip. Upon returning home we relaxed with a dram of single malt and discussed the fishing opportunities in NZ. I had brief nap while Mel read up on the area. Dinner was a brown trout almond, with veggies; the trout having succumbed long ago to Gordon's guile. Good conversation followed and then we retired for the evening.

Day 3; 41 km [29 January 2006;PST] Mel
So much for a long sleep; Steve was up by 4:00 and I by 5:30. Still on BC time, I guess. Gordon was up by the time I got up; he is a going concern; 72 years old and in perpetual motion; a rolling stone, for sure. He made us breakfast; Steve is now a convert to marmite; and started prepping dinner for the evening. Steve and I had decided we wanted to do a little ride out into the country before our Akaroa trip with Gordon and Libby.

Gordon put us on a route that circumnavigated the Port Hills (not ready for climbing yet!!) and took us to a little town called Tai Tapu. Managed to get lost a few times but it was lovely rolling country so it didn’t matter. Really, the exercise was to make sure our bikes were okay and to get used to New Zealand road rules. It is so odd to cycle on the left; the first few times we would gravitate over to the right. I think I got the hang of it quicker than Steve but he got the hang of traffic circles better than I.

Got home by 9:00 AM; in the time for morning tea; and Gordon had packed up a picnic for our trip to Akaroa. Stopped at Little River for our first introduction to New Zealand ice cream (I had hokey pokey, a classic).

As we left Little River, the roads got windier and the views were fantastic. Once we got to Hilltop (aptly named), we took the Summit Road and were afforded fantastic views of Akaroa, Pigeon Bay and the heads of the peninsula that jut out to sea.

Descended into Akaroa and drove out of town to a Maui reserve for a picnic.

Headed back into town a got a tour of this lovely village, first settled by French whalers; the oldest town on the South Island. There is not much left of the French influence; most of the architecture is Victorian; the English having superceded the French sometime in the mid 1800s. Took a nice walk along the waterfront then drove up and down the roads taking in the architecture. The place was booming with tourists but still pretty.

Took the lower road home, passing Barry’s Bay; the sight of a wonderful cheese factory. Stopped in for a nibble and to pick up a bottle of wine for dinner.

It is very difficult to buy anything for Gordon and Libby because the won’t take money for petrol or let us contribute at all. Gordon says we are being subversive. Gordon has a passion for all things historic and has written extensively about Christchurch, the Banks peninsula as wells as certain literary and historical figures. He is such an interesting man. He is eager to impart information , is extremely learned and intelligent yet he is never arrogant. Both he and Libby seem to genuinely enjoy our company and perspective on life. When we got home, Gordon busied himself with prepping another feast; this time trout he had caught himself. He and Steve managed to regale each other with fishing stories while Libby and I sat out in the garden. I just love to listen to Libby talk; a very intelligent woman, with great insights into human behavior. She loves to surround herself with books (they both do) and has a wide breadth of knowledge herself. I think Gordon can be tiring with all his energy, yet they are so loving to each other. They are soul mates, I think. Anyway, it was wonderful to see her at peace in the garden, surrounded the beautiful plants she coaxed into life.

Leg o' lamb; Steve
Steve slept in; it was the walk back from Christchurch cathedral. Yesterday Libby walked us through the botanical gardens and we had lunch at Annie's on the U of Canterbury old campus. The mason work was art form. Following lunch Gordon started us on a tour of Christchurch downtown in the area of Christchurch cathedral and then returned home with Libby. These two are salt of the earth, welcoming us into their home and sharing their knowledge. An example to live by. After viewing Christchurch Cathedral. we took care of some errands and wandered about. Choosing to return home on foot we followed Columbo through some of the more "interesting" parts of Christchurch; it is a modern day city. We finalized our plans for the return of the "cycles" (as they are called in NZ) and arranged for our room at the Skyway on Mar 11. We had just packed the duffels when the evenings company arrived, Ray (Croatian) and Pauline (Slovak) Pirpic, from Saskatoon. Ray reminded me very much of Steve Gomerich. They spend 6 months in Sask, ! 6 in NZ. luckily they had to be away early as the day caught up with Steve as he drifted off a couple of times through the conversation. For a change Steve was the first in bed @ 9.

Day 4 Bike to Sumner/Taylor's mistake and New Brighton 57km
[30 January 2006;PST] Mel
Christchurch city tour
The mist rolled in again the morning as it had yesterday. Steve and I were up early again (he at 3:30, I at 5:00). I was keen to do a hill ride but Steve decided that we wanted an easy day. Gordon set us on our way again; this time taking us on a route circumnavigating the Port Hills in the opposite direction. We ended up on a coastal ride through the community of Sumner. Lots of bikes on the road and road behind a threesome for a few clicks. The ride was flat and if we could have seen anything through the mist, I’m sure the scenery would have been fantastic. In Sumner, there are a lot of huge volcanic boulders in the water and with the mist rising, it gives a spooky sight. As a got to the end of the road, we decided to climb a hill called Taylor’s mistake (Apparently a sea captain named Taylor navigated his ship into the cliffs near there.) It was a long climb but good to test the legs.

Steve’s brain must have suffered on the descent because he proceeded to make two additional right turns into traffic . The last one, the truck driver just looked at his Canada jersey and shook his head!!! Steve says that now that we are in the Southern hemisphere, it is he who is directionally challenged!

We headed out to the estuary from there and over to a beach community called "New Brighton". Miles and miles of sand there; it reminded me of Cape Cod.

Got back home in time for tea then readied ourselves for our Christchurch outing. Libby took Steve and I through the botanical gardens; a beautiful meandering garden full of native species, ponds, native and English trees and a lovely rose and dahlia garden. Libby was so in her element; just being in her presence was special. She is so knowledgeable about plants. Hopefully, some of her observations and musings will stay with me.

Met Gordon at the Art center, former home of the University of Canterbury. It was built in the 1850s, in the Gothic style, it is a beautiful campus that, luckily, was been preserved. And lunch at Annie’s then Gordon and Libby left us to explore the rest of Christchurch by ourselves.

We ambled down Colombo street to Christchurch cathedral; another beautiful Gothic building; and took in the buskers, chess players and "The wizard" proselytizing in the square. Walked home down Colombo and arrived with sore feet after a short 1 and ½ hour walk.

When we got home, Gordon was preparing another feast, Leg of Lamb, while Libby prepared Pavlova. The lamb was accompanied by freshly grown potatoes, kumara (native NZ sweet potato) and tomato and basil with a vinaigrette. We had better start cycling soon or we’ll be waddling to our bikes!!

Gordon had invited a Canadian couple, Ray and Pauline over for supper. Had a swell time swapping stories and enjoying each other’s company. Was a wonderful final evening to spend with our now dear friends

Rakaia Gorge and Geraldine; Steve
A cyclists dream day; climb 500 m over 94 km (c/w strong Tailwinds that made it seem flat)the last 6 km downhill. The land reminds me of Abbotsford overrun with sheep! The roads are chip sealed but not too bad. The interesting difference is the number of hedgerows separating the fields (to prevent erosion). Miles and miles of sheep pasture. As we approach Rakaia Gorge the foothills loom large with wonderful vistas of valleys and eroded pasture hillsides.

The Rakaia river is a baby blue colored monster of a river, running at low similar to Cowichan in flood it appears to swell to the size of the Fraser near Hope. It is a salmon river and the fishermen are here. One gent is a regular who used to grade roads in the area. He spoke of how the wind was known to damage caravans in the park and blow cars off the road that went up Mount Hut. He also shared how fierce the winters were in the area. Melissa made a gourmet pasta dinner. We slept well and woke to a starlit morning and a sunrise over the river.

The ride to Geraldine was uneventful as the scenery returned to sheep pastures. One plus was the tailwind that propelled us downhill for an average speed of 24 kph. We met a tour of Dutch cyclists at Methven and passed shortly before Geraldine. Upon arrival we set camp, Mel repaired her flat and we were away to feast and run errands. The heat caught up with Steve and he is suffering a bit. Hopefully nothing a good nights sleep can not cure.

Day 5 Christchurch to Rakaia Gorge 94 km
[31 January 2006;PST] Mel
I woke up at 5 AM again today; along with my other two favorite boys! It is looking overcast but the rainstorm they promised did not materialize. The walk back from downtown I think took more out of us than we thought and we both slept well. I was feeling a little wistful in the morning and was, in fact, quite teary! I found it so amazing that these people, Gordon and Libby, who we had never met before, took us into their house and provided us with their insights, generosity, hospitality and their time in order to make sure that our introduction to NZ was superb. It is hard to express the depth of feeling I have for these people who I didn’t even know four days ago. Gordon, again, provided us with breakfast and then a send off as we left just before 8:00. Took a bit of time to find our way out of the city despite having a map. Found a bike shop on the way so Steve could secure some extra spokes for his bike.

Didn’t take long for the traffic to thin out and soon we were on the Canterbury plains. I found the countryside a little more interesting once we passed Darfield; a dreary little town but with a very pleasant information guide who set us on the way to Glentunnel. Had our sandwiches Gordon made for us at the town square and got supplies for dinner and breakfast. As we approached Glentunnel, the road got quieter and more interesting; very agrarian and views of the mountains in the distance. We’ve noticed NZ has war memorials everywhere; even in the smallest communities. The ones most memorialized seem to be WW1 soldiers where the casualties we huge!

We stopped at the top of one of the hills to get a view of the surrounding countryside and there, in the middle of nowhere, was a large war memorial. By this time I was a bit headachy; probably due to lack of fluids and electrolytes (I’m sweating more in the humid weather) and partly due to coffee withdrawal. I’ve been three days without coffee and Steve says that , under the circumstances, I’m fairly civil! Anyway, we only had about 10 km to go at this time, so we persevered with me lagging behind a bit until the last 5km where we stopped for a look at the magnificent Rakaia Gorge before descending into it. We found our campsite just above the Gorge (a deal at $6 NZ including hot showers). Set up the tent (it worked) and bundled up as the wind picked up.

Had a pretty quiet rest of the day; organizing, writing and composing emails (Steve seems to have developed a passion for it; I may live to curse the day pocket mail was invented!). Didn’t explore the areas much because the wind, cold and cloud cover but are in a great spot!

I managed to whip up a meal on zucchini, mushroom chorizo pasta that was a hit with Steve and proved that cooking on a Trainga doesn’t need to be labour intensive. We certainly appreciated the hot meal tonight!

After dinner, a retired couple ambled over here to chat with us. So typical of Kiwis, friendly, eager to impart information and just interested in other people. The world could learn a lot from them!!

Day 6 Rakaia Gorge to Geraldine 94km [1 February 2006;PST] Mel
The winds seemed to ease overnight although I was still a little coolish in the tent. It was promising to be a spectacular s sunrise over the gorge with pinks and oranges appearing but it never really materialized. On my fourth day coffee free, so had bread , fruit and tea for breakfast before breaking camp and heading up the other side of the Gorge. Everyone we talked to said it was a brutal climb but I didn’t find it bad at all. It was steep but not very long. At the top of the hill, we veered off to the right to the town of Methven which services the ski mountain of Mount Hutt . The climb out of the Gorge was spectacular; lots of jagged treeless peaks , very "Lord of the Rings"ish. Going into Methven was lovely, very pastoral but with mountains in the distance.

However, the piece de resistance was the beautiful downhill road accompanied by tailwinds. Such a freeing feeling; stopped at Methven where we ran into a group of Dutch cyclists on a sag supported trip. Looked around the town but was really nothing there but businesses designed to service the burgeoning population in the winter ski season. On the way back to the highway, the winds got stronger (in the wrong direction!) so we suffered a bit. I’d forgotten the toll cycling laded takes on your body; it’s not just aerobic capacity but physical strength as well. In that respect, I found doing 90+ km a day to be quite tiring.

Pretty soon, though, we hit the highway and if all NZ roads are like this, I’ll be ecstatic! The roads were so quiet; traffic virtually non existent. People complain about the surface but except for the spots where it is "just sealed" and there is loose gravel, I found them pretty good.

The ride past Mt Somers towards Geraldine was pretty uneventful. Lots of agriculture; lambing and beef mostly. We had left the hills behind and were mostly on flat land. Were ecstatic when we saw the Geraldine signs. The temperature had risen and we were both weary and in need of food. Found a motor camp close to town so set up (well, Steve set up while I fixed my first flat of the trip). Then, we headed to town for a hearty lunch and a beer or two at a local cafe.

Geraldine is a cute little town; seems to be full of tourists on their way to Mount Cook or Queenstown. Gordon had recommended Barker’s; a place that makes fruit wines and cordials but unfortunately they were all in glass containers. Also took in the cheese factory which had the most delicious ice cream to date; I had ginger nut full of thick pieces of ginger!!! The rest of the day was spent getting supplies, doing wash and recuperating. Tomorrow will be a climb to Lake Tekapo and we need to be ready for it.

Burke Mtn; Steve
The sleep worked, Steve felt better in the AM. We awoke at our regular 5 AM quietly packed the gear and proceeded to Bakery for fresh Danish and savories to start the day. We left Geraldine around 7 and proceeded to take the long way to Fairlie, the promise of little traffic worth the extra 23 km we would have to cycle.

It was worth it, miles of scenery and few vehicles. At first we dropped down to Pleasant Point (67 m elev) then back up to Fairlie (308 m) where we indulged in our first NZ meat pies; Adam was right, delicious! We met up with the Dutch tour group that had taken the shorter route to Fairlie.

The ride so far had felt much more difficult than the light headwind had suggested, the steady rise keeping us to an average of 22 kph. The toughest part was yet to come. The 400 m climb to Burke Mtn was steady with a few steep sections. The temperature climbed to 22 before welcome light rains hit at the top of Burke mtn. 18 more km put us at the lakeside campground we will call home for the next 2 nights. 113 km for the day, we are due a rest day.

Our teamwork was tested as we scrambled to cover the bikes, gear, and set up the tent as the light rain turned to a heavy squall. Within the hour the skies have cleared and the temperature is climbing. The lake looks inviting for a swim, the glacial azure blue giving way in this bay to aquamarine, a trick of the light or a deception of temperature. Only one way to find out.

Day 7 Geraldine to Lake Tekapo 113km [2 February 2006;PST] Mel
Up before 5AM despite being woken up by the Dutch cycling contingent after we retired last night. Why they saw fit to have a rousing conversation outside our tent is beyond me. We got our revenge by packing up at 5AM in the dark. Hmmmm…. How very un kiwi like of us.

AT the bakery by 6AM; I was naughty and couldn’t resist a cup of java; I think the caffeine deprivation is causing my headaches though more likely it was sun exposure. We took the advice of Nigel Rushton and avoided the straight road from Geraldine to Fairlie. In his words; "Mornings between Geraldine and Tekapo can resemble rush hour in downtown Taipei as hordes of large buses trundle along the Blue Ribbon route from Christchurch to Queenstown carrying the next wave of snoozing, jet lagged, packaged, processed tourists on their annual 7 day whistle stop holiday of a lifetime."


So, we bypassed most of the route from Geraldine to Fairlie by going through the aptly named Pleasant Valley. It was beautiful green rolling countryside with virtually no traffic on the roads; good tailwinds and flattish roads. Of course, this had its drawbacks as we dropped 85m in elevation which we had to regain and we added an extra 23km to our ride.

Once we got to Pleasant Point, we started the slow ascent upwards. It was really a bizarre feeling because it looked like we were going down; I felt like I was riding on deflated tires. Maybe it was the mountains in the backgrounds that gave the optical illusion…. Stopped at Cave to see if we could locate the Mauri Rock paintings but unfortunately were on private land and needed permission to be granted to decided to give it a miss. The road was becoming a slower grade creating havoc on my back and Steve’s butt and less green than the valley. Again, there were sheep everywhere even some small goats which were interspersed with deer and cattle farms.

We were ecstatic when we finally reached Fairlie; a sleepy little once pioneer town. Stopped to stretch, rest and indulge in our first "meat pie" experience. Saw the Dutch group again; they went the more direct way and found it was not crowded. Oh well! The road out of Fairlie continued with the slow tortuous ascent; we were down to 17-18km per hour and were getting passed by the Dutch group. The, two more grunt climbs and we were almost done. Interesting how the whole landscape changed as we crested Burke’s pass.

Much more rocky, scrub like vegetation and the hills were barren. At last, saw the Lake Tekapo sign; stopped in for supplies and information before booting it to the campsite. Lake Tekapo is not much of a village; more than just an outlet for tourists either on their way to Queenstown or to explore the lake and surrounding area. Managed to get the tent up before a horrific rain storm materialized. Thirty minutes later, the sun appeared. That is NZ weather for you! The day started with drizzle then went to intense heat going up the pass then heavy rain down the other side. Changing clothes becomes quite time consuming.

Anyway, we stretched, rested and then finally made dinner before taking a lakeside twilight stroll before bed. Sat next to an Irish couple in the kitchen and chatted about respective travels. Got a lot of good ideas and advice and decided to nix Queenstown. Tomorrow is a rest day, Yeah, hope the sun shines down upon us.

Day 8 Rest day Lake Tekapo [3 February 2006;PST] Mel
So Steve says he didn’t like my idea of rest day. Hey, we slept until 6:30…. Pretty cool this morning so I booted it into the Lounge for some warmth and a stretch. This old body isn’t as receptive as it used to be. Sun broke out so meandered into town for groceries and postcards. Lovely walk by the lake to town but already tourists had descended so had a quick brekkie and made an escape.

Decided to take a walk up to Mount John’s to get a good look at the surrounding countryside. It was a good climb to the top but, hey, we were resting our butt muscles. The sun was now in full force and it felt glorious. The view from the top was way more than we expected. The alps in all there glory were laid out in front of us to the west and to the east the barren hills the surround Lake Tekapo and Alexandria which were a deep azure blue.

Decided take the windy descent back to camp and arrived 2 and ½ hours later with just enough time to wash clothes, clean bikes and walk to town gain for dinner supplies which was a simple lamb, veggies and couscous combo.

Overall, it was a great day. Without knowing it, I think I was a little cautious and physically spent yesterday and therefore a little distant with Steve. I think Steve was glad to get a more playful, exuberant me back for the day. He really is so easy to be with, so comfortable with himself, and therefore, other people.

Omarama; Steve
Spent most of the day thinking of fishing! ON OUR RETURN TRIP in a couple of years #8^) I WILL bring my fly rod and we will have to get out and catch some trout. There was a classic car festival at Lake Takepo so we were able to see many quality maintained/restored vehicles from the 20s on. After visiting the "Church of the good Shepard" we were on our way.

We chose the canal route to avoid both hills and traffic. A constant headwind on the first leg kept us bundled but was appreciated when we turned the bend and the resulting tailwind propelled us on. We overtook a couple from Kelowna, BC, (Kiwi's by birth) and had a good chat before continuing. There were only a few fisherman alongside the salmon pens, enough to keep my thoughts on the fishing potential instead of the now prevailing headwind. After the dam we dropped quickly to the lake, where after a brief rest resumed our (luckily) downhill battle with the wind. Just when we thought we were doing something special, we met a young German couple with two small children. They were traveling with two trailers, one for the children, one for all there gear. We were impressed. We prevailed over the wind at an average of 20 kph into Omarama.

At the cafe was a clipping of a young fellow with a record trout from the canal, monstrous looking creature. When we checked into the top 10 campsite the proprietor told us of their trout pond; full of 1 to 5 lb fish. Try as I might I was unable to capture more than a reflection of the surrounding trees; such is digital fishing.


Day 9 Lake Tekapo to Omarama 90km [4 February 2006;PST] Mel
"Heritage and Headwinds"
So, this was supposed to be an easy day so took the opportunity t sleep in until 6:30 and not on the road until 8:00. Decided to check out the famous "Church of the Good Shepard" on the shores of the lake. Beautiful little church built in 1936 to serve the pioneers of the Mackenzie Valley. I guess knowing that God could not compete with this landscape, the builders wisely but a window almost the width and height of the church behind the altar. Must have been a powerful orator to be able to capture the imagination of his congregation.

Lake Tekapo was hosting a vintage car show over the weekend so saw lots of beautiful cars on our way out. Most of then were pre 1930 with skinny tires and they barely had the power to pass us. The were beautifully restored and was fascinating to look at them. Later on, we passed a couple of cyclists going the opposite direction; the woman was carrying all the gear and the gent was riding a Penny Farthing. Hope the winds keep down for them.

We elected to ride the canal route out of town, the canal being created by the damming of Lake Tekapo. It was a great ride; the road were quiet and the first vehicles we passed were a pair of cyclists ( of Kiwi extraction) from Kelowna. We were warned the winds could make cycling treacherous along the exposed canal. Well, if you call unremitting headwinds treacherous….

Once we got further into the Mackenzie valley, the landscape became more sparse; very desert like with only the lakes and their surrounding hills to break the monotony.

Wanaka; Steve
An early start for what will be the biggest day cycling; 115 km. Made sure Melissa had her cappuccino, no more caffeine withdrawal headaches this trip! We left camp at 7 AM under overcast skies, a blessing, only 12 C had us bundled till the start of the final ascent to Lindis pass. Once more we found the ascent a challenge but not as bad as it could have been. The cloud cover and a light tailwind eased our way.

Upon reaching the top we found ourselves on a 9 km descent, Melissa was out in front and soon a km ahead as I did not feel comfortable with trying to slow 280 lbs at a high speed. One of the brits we had following us came down on his recumbent and told of almost losing it on a reverse hairpin. The scenery was awesome, completely different in that the gorge we rode down was surrounded by eroded cliffs. As we got closer to Tarrus the scenery returned to the barren rolling foothills we have become accustomed to. Tarrus was another of the "quaint" South Island main street towns Steve was getting to like. How much so became apparent when he went into culture shock riding into downtown Waneka on the last day of their busy long weekend. The cycle from Tarrus to Waneka was more effort than expected as you go up about 300 m before returning to Waneka's elevation.

Food is becoming an issue for Steve as he is finding that he cannot consume enough on the long rides to keep up with expenditure, meat pies are becoming staples for every break, the NZ meat pie industry may never recover! Arrival at camp in mid afternoon was "cause celebre" and as soon as the tent was up, gear stored, we took a cool dip in the pool.

Melissa again cooked a gourmet lamb stirfry, served up with nz finest sauvignon blanc. A brief respite was followed by a soothing hot tub in preperation for a good nights sleep.

Day 10 Omarama to Wanaka 115km [5 February 2006;PST] Mel
Whew! What a day; a good one though. I was headache free all day due to my partaking of the evil weed in earnest (Steve insisted). Got up early and on the road early to get a jump on holiday traffic going home (It’s Waitangi Day) last day of summer before school).

Started out pretty well; absolutely no traffic and what there was honked and waved in support. The ascent to Lindis pass wasn’t that bad; I found Burke’s pass more difficult but then it came at the end of the day! Just shifted into the granny gear and slogged our way up the hill. The day was cool and misty so visibility was not good and we were pretty much focused on the road ahead. As if by design, the sun decided to break through just as we crested the hill. What followed was an exhilarating delirious 9km descent into the Lindis Valley. A lovely valley; quiet with hills on both sides of the road and a strip of agricultural area between the road and the hills which kind of reminded me of the Falkland area. We then descended into a canyon like area just as the sun was at its peak. One small climb at 70km with views of the valleys and a peak at the Southern Alps and then we coasted into Tarrus for lunch for, you guessed it, the ubiquitous meat pies. Ran into some lads from England we had met the night before and chatted with them for a while at this lovely tea shop in the middle of nowhere which had a beautiful little garden on the side.

The last 30km to Wanaka started to test our bodies. We were expecting flat roads and descents but had a surprising number of ascents. Steve was starting to tire. When, at long last, we arrived at Wanaka, the place was packed with tourists (red wine festival and rock concert on the long weekend). Steve was getting used to small towns with few people so we made a quick escape from the shoreline/downtown area.

By the time we made it to camp, it was hot as Hades. Set up camp then plunged into the swimming pool. Took advantage of the hot tub to rejuvenate our sore mucles.

Melissa, Wind Warrior Princess; Steve
We decided to have a light day of it today. The 115 from Omarama to Wanaka having taken a little out of energy resources. We slept in till 6:30 due to the hot tub last night. A slow start to a relaxed day, was what we told ourselves. Meandering into Wanaka around 9, a few errands and we would be away. We met a Torston, young German fellow, on his way north to Auckland to return to his studies in a few weeks. The strong breeze and city wide power outage should have clued us in.

As we set out we convinced ourselves the side wind we were experiencing would let up or at least be a tailwind. Not so said the cycling gods! 18 km out of Wanaka, at Lake Hawea, we stopped to fuel up on a meat pie as the winds had now shown their intent. Little did we know what was in store for us; THE LAKE WAS COVERED IN WHITECAPS, all coming our way!

Still weary from the previous day, I did the honorable thing (one needs to understand Melissa does not like to be held up by slowpokes #8^) and let Melissa take on the wind. This battle with wind would continue throughout the day, I would occasionally give Melissa, the wind warrior, a respite. The scenery was awesome, the hills now lush with vegetation (all bowing their heads to the wind gods). As hard as it blew on Lake Hawea, the Lake Wanaka side was more treacherous! We were riding on the outer edge of the road with the wind gusting strongly towards us. At one point as we rounded a cliff face, and watched as the wind swept two lambs and a small calf from the inside ditch to the lake center, we chose to walk for a km on the inside of the road.

After this the rain threatened and the winds eased. The ride into Makarora was unlike any we have experienced, high mountain ranges of deep green vegetation. A pristine wilderness through which this highway meanders. 6 days in a tent, a ferocious headwind holding us to 15 kph, and threatening rainstorms drove us to renting a warm, dry cabin in preparation for the final ascent to the WEsT coast.

Ah, tomorrow's challenge...

Day 11 Lake Wanaka to Makarora; 66 grueling kms [6 February 2006;PST] Mel
So, yesterday we decided on a new strategy; have a hard long day (like Omarma to Wanaka) followed by a short tourist day of 50-60km so we can meander, take in a few things then head into camp early. Well, the best made plans of mice and men….

The day started ominously; the clear blue sky that was full of stars at 4AM had started to cloud over. Then, when I went to put my paniers on, I noticed yet another flat. By the time we headed into town for supplies and tubes, it was past 9 oclock. Ran into a German guy, Torsten, at the grocery store who was heading in the same direction but was trying to make it to Haast for the evening.

By this time, all the power was off in the town so we had to wait around to get cash. Winds were blustering and that with the power failure should have given us a clue that this would not be an easy day,

Despite the winds, the day was a beautiful one to behold. Lots of undulating roads, most of it carved out of the sides of the mountains that border Lake Hawea and lake Wanaka. By the time we had got to the south end of lake Hawea (19km), it was time to refuel. The whole ride along the lake, we never lost sight of it. After one particularly gruelling climb, we stopped at a look out and were rewarded with beautiful views down the lake. A cycling group (with support) had stopped there as well and a few were complaining about the hills for which I had no sympathy since they had no gear and tailwinds!!!

We eventually left Lake Hawea and climbed the neck to descend half way up Lake Wanaka. This time we were riding on the lake side of the road. The views were even more gorgeous; lots of green vegetation and birch trees and some pretty amazing precipitous drops. By this time, the winds had really picked up and we had to make a decision whether to camp at the DOC (minimal facilities; exposed campground) or grind it out to Makaroa. Finally, after rounding pretty hairy corner and hardly being able to stay on our bikes, we crossed the road and walked our bikes for the next km or so. It was a hard grind but finally made it in to town about 51/2 hours after leaving and 41/2 hours on the saddle. It was our lowest km day and slowest (14.7km/hour) but the toughest day yet on our bike.

Got into camp and made the decision to spend an extra $45 to rent a chalet so we could keep dry and get an early start. Ran into Torsten again who managed to break a spoke on the ride over. Steve offered his tools and expertise and had the spoke replaced in no time. Really nice kid, Torsten, smart and easy to talk to.

Haast; Steve
The wind warrior got her wish, rain instead of wind. With all the gear inside an early start was in order. 8:15 was not as early as it could be, but with the rain pounding down all night we were taking our time getting going. Our spirits were not dampened as riding in the rain is something we are accustomed to. The landscape is lush with rainforest vegetation, foothill after foothill. Hidden waterfalls and unique rock and bluff formations were the highlights as we climbed our way up to Haast Pass. The birds were our chorus for all of the ride, seldom interrupted by traffic. The last few hundred meters up the pass was difficult but not as intense as others.
We stopped a few times, to take pictures of the valley and waterfalls. The drop after the pass was short and intense, followed by another zigzag drop of approximately 4 km to the bridge at gates of Haast. The river drops through a beautiful rock gorge.
As the river widened and flattened the road became an easy gradient, just flat enough to require pedaling. We knew we were getting closer to the west coast by the number of sand flies (NZ equivalent to no-see-ums) that attacked every time we stopped. The rain eased up as we approached Haast, to be replaced by a light headwind.
Haast was a small village a few km from the sea, just the size Steve likes; a grocer, cafe, couple of hotels and a small community. arrival was soon followed by the consumption of meat pies (sadly these had been heated far too long). Fairlie still reigns supreme as the meat pie capital. Once more chef Melissa created a wonderful bacon/pasta carbonara dish that was quickly devoured.

Day12 Makaroa to Haast; 78km [7 February 2006;PST] Mel
What a difference a day makes! Good choice in getting a room because it pissed down all last night. No matter, the winds died down. Still feeling the affects of yesterday so it was good the first 15km we an easy meander along the Haast river. The whole ride is through Mount Aspiring National Park so there was lots of opportunity for viewing water falls, spectacular gorges and misty beech laden mountains.

The climb to Haast pass was steep with a few down hills over streams and gorges (usually one lane bridges) but it was short and we were relieved when we hit the summit. It ws a spectacular ride down; passed some waterfalls that were so powerful they were used to power the machinery used in building the road which was only completed in 1960. The road was windy and narrow with lots of cattle grates. It narrowed considerable at one point with a cliff face on one side and a gorge on the other. This area is know as “The gates of Haast”. The scenery was fantastic; mountains looming on all sides, peaking out through the mist. And the smell, overwhelming, fresh and slightly fragrant and the cacophony of bird sounds followed us the whole was down. Pretty soon, the hills flattened out and we were cycling through “Pleasant Flat” along the Haast River.

Was a pretty good ride all the way into Haast but towards the end, even the small inclines were exhausting me. However, we got into Haast at 1:30 with the whole day to recuperate. Had a lazy afternoon cleaning bikes and clothes and sorting our for tomorrow. Ran into Torsten again; made him an expresso and had dinner with him. Thought of going with him to do The Copeland Track just south of Fox Glacier but decided we just aren’t equipped to do any “tramping”. The sun finally came out after dinner so walked around town exploring, not much to see but good to have the sun on my skin.

Weather reports; Steve
Thank you, Gordon, for the weather reports; shortly after receiving your e-mail the sky cleared and we just had a brilliant rainbow. Hopefully we get a few days of nice weather as we head up the coast.
Today was a ride for the senses. Air freshened by heavy rainfall, fragrance of flowers and trees, a chorus of songbirds, overwhelming colors of lush vegetation and the river cutting its way along the gorge.


Burgers and beer; Steve
They were the reward for 6 hrs in the saddle and 122 km covered.

We started in Haast, first crossing the 750 m one way bridge spanning the Haast River. The scenery continues to be lush and the bent and weathered trees reminded me of Tofino. We soon were listening to the pounding surf as we stopped at ships creek for a quick look.

Long gravel and sand beaches with roaring breakers coming in off the Tasman Sea. The next 20 km took us to the start of the climbs around Knight's pt. The sea edge around the points was like East Sooke park, crags plummeting to sandy beaches. At seal point the binoculars came out to view the 50 or so seals on the sandy spit.
We then turned inland to Lake Moeraki and Lake Paringa. Glimpses of the southern alps were our treat when the mist would lift. 3 km shy of Lake Paringa Melissa's front derailleur sheared. A little tie wire repaired the derailleur so Melissa had the two smaller chain rings (giving her the lower 18 gears, enough for the climbs). After the lakes we returned to the sea at Bruce Bay. The surf was up for the length of the bay, a mixture of black and gray sand was being crushed finer by 5 m swells crashing in.
The remainder of ride was inland, only climbing a couple hundred m in elevation. At Fox glacier the mist was on the mountains when we arrived and set up camp. This tourist Mecca was alive with Europeans, Asians, and more Canadians. We saw our 3rd "cycle touring" group here as well. There has definitely been an increase in loaded cycle traffic as well.
A long hot day topped off with a good meal promises a good nights sleep. Tomorrows challenge; locate parts for Melissa's bike at one of the dozen or more cycle shops between here and Nelson.

Day 13 Haast to Fox Glacier; 122km [8 February 2006;PST] Mel
Woke up to a beautiful west coast morning; clear, calm and sunny. This day was going to bode well for us. We were on the road by 7:30 to take advantage of the quiet roads, but frankly, there is never much traffic on these roads. Got to the mouth of the Haast and cycled the 730m over NZ’s longest one lane bridge. You can see how wild this place can get by the angle of the trees. We cycled inland to begin with through dense tropical vegetation followed by the most incredible striking piece of coastal scenery I have ever witnessed on a bike. For 20km, we followed the coast, stopping at Ship’s creek, where a ship’s hull from a wreck off the coast of Tasmania was found. A few climbs from there to Knight’s point which was the piece de resistance of this remarkable coast.

The ocean was strewn with massive boulders and their were great views down the coast in both directions. Could just make out a beach where, in the winter, up to 800 seals beach.

From here, the road turned inland and followed nice rolling hills up and down past Lake Moeraki and Lake Paringa. It was in this stretch of highway, my front derailleur broke.

Panic ensued on my part, but Steve was able to bind it together with wire and was able to use all but my big ring. Found a great little place, complete with Salmon ponds, for a much deserved lunch for Steve.

Set off with a little trepidation (due to derailleur mishap) for the rest of the trip. Stopped at Bruce Bay for a look when the highway came back to the sea and watched the wild waters.

The inland highway was similar to earlier in the day; thick vegetation, cacaphony of birds, particularly the pesky Kea, lots of rounded hills and occasional glimpses of the alps. One lane bridges were ominpresent although many of the creeks they traversed were dry. Finally at 95km, we cooled off at the Karangara Rive to give us energy for the last 25km.

Pooped, we decided to eat out, a good protein hamburger meal (overprice but this is a tourist mecca). Torsten had arrived at camp with yet another broken spoke so Steve had another bike project on his hands. Despite this, it was a beautiful lovely day with totally amazing scenery.

Surf's song; Steve
A late start to a lazy day. After breakfast we cycled the 4.5 km to Lake Matheson. Without 40 lbs of gear it was surprising how responsive the bicycles were. A short tramp to Reflection Island rewarded us with stunning pictures of Mt Cook and its much clearer reflection. Upon returning to camp we packed up and checked emails for a campagnola dealer for the parts we needed. After sending emails to Hoogies leads we left town heading for Franz Joseph. The first two hills were long grinds that we interrupted to take pictures of the spectacular scenery. Blessed with clear skies we were able to view the Glaciers clearly. As our angle of viewing changed so did the shades of blue and white the glacier reflected. The rivers were masters of the geology, their glacial blue waters carving the landscape to their will. Lush vegetation gave way to scoured cliff faces for stunning contrast.

Franz Joseph was a "Fox Glacier" on tourist steroids. Buses not only lined the streets, they parked in the street; the drone of Helicopters was constant. A quick meal, some more e-mails and groceries. We were glad to get on our way! A lazy gentle ride around Lake Mapourika, a quick left at Forks Okarito Road and we were in Kiwi country. Signposts indicating Kiwi crossings were the indicators. In the heat of the afternoon we were happy to smell the ocean and hear the surf as we approached Okarito. With camp set we showered (free as the camp steward was impressed we were cycling) and had a light dinner. A brief sojourn to the beach was followed a wander through town to check out the lagoon boat trip for morning.
We returned to the beach and walking along the entrance to the lagoon there was the unmistakable smell of salmon. Interesting in that it was confined to about 25 m of beachfront. There were a number of fishermen, some tourists, some serious locals trying their luck. Ours was amazing; we were able to view the sunset and its affect on the mist on the Alps. No finer way to end the day.
PS. We had "caught" digitally our quota when we stopped for lunch at a salmon farm yesterday. Also in our digital haul were some impressively large rainbow trout!

Day 14 Fox Glacier to Okarita; 61km [9 February 2006;PST] Mel
Sad day today because we said goodbye to our German son, Torsten. He says I’m like his Mom because I make him coffee and Steve is like his Dad because he fixes his bike for him. Had an excellent sleep last night; totally exhausted from the ride and didn’t wake up until 6:30. Actually, I think the helicopters that take throngs of tourists to the glaciers woke me up.

Torsten convinced us to ride out to Lake Matheson with him to see the reflection of Mount Cook on the lake. It was a beautiful morning and a nice 5km ride out there. Took the walk around the lake and, at times, when we got out of the forest, saw glimpses of Mount Cook. Arriving at the reflection pool, we were not disappointed. Mount cook, in all its splendor, was perfectly reflected in the lake. We got there in the nick of time because, not 5 minutes later, the mist rose, the lake started rippling and the opportunity was lost.

We packed up from camp, said goodbye to Torsten and took a ride into town for errands, Steve was trying to figure out how to get parts for my bike (the wire wouldn’t last forever) Unfortunately, there is no Campagnola distributer in NZ. I think all this is getting to Steve; the responsibility of handling everyone’s bike maintenance and coming up with a solution. Steve is an excellent problem solver so I probably rely on him too much in that respect Finally back on the road about noon. Everyone had complained about the three climbs outside of Fox Glacier but besides a severe menstrual cramp episode on the first hill, they weren’t all that bad.

As per typical NZ style, they wound up one side of the mountain and zig zagged and switch backed down the other. Again, the views of the rivers and of precipitous drops were everywhere. The only thing about climbing in NZ, is you rarely reap the benefits on the downhill. Because of the curves and the narrowness of the road. I rarely let go of my brakes.

Arrived at Franz Joesph Glacier and experienced culture shock again at the quantity of people all being offered helicopter rides, glacier walks etc. I was content to view the glacier from the town while I ate my overpriced lunch.

We left Franz Joseph at about 3PM so the day was getting away from us. After about 14km through rolling hills and agricultural land, we turned off onto a lovely slightly hilly road that took us into the small coastal town of Okarito. Okarito was a thriving port town during the 1860s gold rush but now has only a handful of full time residents. It is beautifully situated at the end of the Okarito Lagoon home to the White Heron colony. A lot of the land is on DOC land which probably explains why it isn’t massively developed. It is a truly beautiful place with the sea, the lagoon and the mountains as a backdrop.

After a yummy couscous veggie feast, Steve and I went for a walk on the beach; Steve jealously observing all the fishermen casting for salmon then took a turn around the town and back to the beach to watch a glorious sunset.

Rest day; Steve
Another rest day, another tramp uphill! I thought I had Melissa understanding the true meaning of rest when she agreed to check out Okarito Lagoon by guided powerboat instead of by Kayak. With a very knowledgeable guide we were introduced to all sorts of flora and fauna. The most stunning was the White Heron, a standout at great distances. We learned about the 7 species of trout they call whitebait upon their return by the millions from the sea where they have hatched. In spite of the torrential downpour we had a wonderful 2 hour tour of the Lagoon and its main feed, the Okarito river.
The guide did mention a certain tramp (uphill!!) to a bluff where after a warm lunch we hiked to in the clearing weather. The spectacular view was worth the effort as we not only had a great view of the Okarita lagoon, we also saw the three mile lagoon and views of the Tasman Sea.
It is a good day to rest as the wind has been constant from the North and would have made cycling grueling. Local info has that the weather will clear Sunday morning when we head out to Ross or Hokitika.

Day 15 Rest day Okarito [10 February 2006;PST] Mel
Woke up to rain; thank god it’s a rest day! We had thoughts about hiring kayaks but decided, hey, it’s a rest day so went out on a boat cruise to the lagoon instead. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the ecology of the area as well as the flora and fauna. The Okarito lagoon is one of the largest wetlands in NZ and home to the largest white heron colony. Saw lots of bird life including many white herons (which means we’ll return to NZ) but also included kingfishers, spoonbills, bellbirds, oyster catchers and the amazing bar taited godwit (?). This bird lives between Alaska and New Zealand, heading north in summer to Alaska (a 14 day trip). Apparently all the bird tissue is converted to muscle and as time appraoches to leave, the stomach actually shrinks. Lots of interesting vegetation, particularly epiphytes.

After lunch, the rain subsided a little so we decided to do a small hike to the top of the Okarito Trig to see the lagoon from that vantage point. Steve whined a bit that it was supposed to be a rest day but the views of the lagoon were worth it. We were able to see vast distances of both Okarito and some of the 3 and 5 mile lagoon. Unfortunately, views of the Southern alps were obscured by clouds.

Came back to camp and who should be there but the kiwi, John, who we helped out with a tube in Haast. Interesting guy; has travelled all over the middle east and quite bright but a bit of a misogynist and beer fiend. Can only take so much of his talk, he has entertaining and did give us a few cycling tips for the north island. It was actually nice being at an almost empty campsite because all the previous night campers had cleared out due to rain. However, at 7 PM, who should arrive but a tour bus full of 20 somethings from all over the globe. Ah, but we did endure and they were so cold and wet, they were pretty quiet.

Though the waves would lull us off to sleep again but incessant rain on the tenet was rather disruptive. Still, we did rest!

Downpour, tailwinds and sunshine; Steve
Planned a big day 128 km, the weather was not compliant. A bus group showed up at the camp last night c/w a trailer full of mountain bikes (shimano of course!). They filled the little shelter when they ate, an interesting group of young people being shuttled around for 4 weeks. With them the rains returned! All night!
There was a break in the weather at 6 when we ate breakfast. Met a Kiwi from the Nelson area who told us the best approach to "Able Tasman" was from golden bay. A tempting choice as we may have 4 days to spend in the area. One hitch; crossing Takaka hill twice.
We packed the tent once the bikes were loaded trying to dry it if possible. No luck. The skies looked promising as we left Okarito. 2 km out the downpour began, lightening up at the Forks. It was to be that kind of day, a serious "West coast" downpour that even us seasoned Vancouver Islanders had to admit was rain (droplets bouncing off the road and blowing into us, felt a little like home), followed by a lighter shower and promise of sunshine; only to repeat the cycle. 70+ km of this was a little much to take in stride! Pukukara offered respite in that we could change to dry clothes. Steve wolfed down a bowl of soup and a bambi burger, Melissa indulged in whitebait. We set our minds on Hokitika and were away again.
Ross arrived quickly now that the weather warmed up and the raingear was off. Melissa (Greek for honeybee) took a sharp left turn into the beekeeper at Ross and soon we were indulging in Honey rice Krispie squares.
Rejuvenated we took up the challenge of the last 28 km to Hokitika. It is one of the larger centers we had been in since Christchurch and Melissa was again frustrated by the "bigbox" lack of service at the NW grocer. She managed however and treated Steve to a wonderful Fried Chicken dinner c/w taters, broccoli and carrots. Life does not get much better than this! A short walk on the beach, journaling and we are off to sleep to the sound of the Tasman sea.


Day 16 Okarito to Hokitika; 128km [11 February 2006;PST] Mel
Got up to the sound of rain but decided we may as well get going as the rain showed no sign of abating. Were on the road by 7:30; with mixed feelings. Okarito is a lovely little place and has a charm you don’t so much of these days. Too bad it was so damp on our day off.

Really hard to describe the scenery because most of what we saw to the 90km mark was unremitting rain! Went over some nice rivers which were now raging with waters, a nice lake and another national park (when one park ends on the south island, another seems to start). Talked to a kiwi at breakfast in Okarito who said so much of the South island is parkland, there are endless possibilities for tramping, kayaking etc. yet most of the people he meets on the trails are from foreign countries.

Stopped at Pukukara for lunch; home to infamous “:wild food/bushman” lunches (also know as road kill). Did not try the Possum pie as possum are known to carry TB but did try a whitebait sandwich. Pretty non-descript even for a ravenous, wet cyclist. Pretty kitschy place, even had an enormous wood sculpture of a man eating sand fly above the door.


After Pukekara, the weather let up for a bit and riding into Ross, an old gold town, it became quite humid. Picked up some lovely Rata honey from a local apiary before pushing on. The road to Holitika was pretty uninspiring save crossing the mighty Hokitia river before arriving in town. Managed to get a campsite really close to the beach; just out of town and managed a stroll just before bed; full moon radiant.

Sunshine and tailwinds; Steve
A terrific day from the start! Late rising, a slow start to let things dry out and a saunter into town to check out the bike store. While there a sales rep gives us the card for a campagnola dealer in Richmond (15 k south of Nelson). This eases Steve’s mind as not only has Melissa broken her front derailleur, her front ergo shifter cable is starting to fray. 3 more days and we will be at a shop that can deal with this. By eliminating Queenstown and the cycle from Wellington to Napier from our plans this may leave us with a week to spend in the Nelson/Golden Bay/Able Tasman area. We will know sometime tomorrow when we call the bike shop.

The skies cleared and a gentle tailwind pushed us north from Hokitika. The Tasman surf our constant companion for most of the way. No hills over 100 m and little traffic 5 km+ outside the city limits. The mornings ride took us as far as Greymouth a pretty little town that is doing some serious upgrade as you enter it from the south. Sadly it has a McD's! We chose a little cafe in the city center and rested a bit on the "Grey wall" that keeps the river from flooding the town. Interesting enough one of the lambs that blew across the road at Lake Wanaka floated by; they have serious winds in NZ.

The afternoon push was a struggle till we returned to the edge of the sea. Inspired by the beauty of the coastline we were soon up to speed and the miles peeled away. 88 km later we were at pancake rocks with only a km left to camp. Melissa got her ice cream cone and we were off to set camp. "No dinner till we do the Pancake rock/blowhole" said Melissa. And so it was, not even a rest day and we were traipsing UPHILL before Steve could get fed! It was worth the effort. DOC does a fantastic job of creating interesting pathways and viewpoints.

We met an interesting Englishman here on a one year VISA, who shared his tales of cycle and chosen routes. We plan to be away early as the weather is to change some time in the afternoon tomorrow. The adventure continues....


Day 17 Hokitika to Punakeiki; 89 km [12 February 2006;PST] Mel
Great day; the rains abated overnight although they were fierce overnight. Steve was feeling quite tired and out of sorts due to the long day yesterday so we purposefully left late; giving him a reprieve and us a chance to dry out the tent. Discovered the lube was gone (left in Okarito) so headed into town to replace it. Luckily there was a rep in the bike store who told us of a shop in Nelson where we could get Campagnola parts for my bike. Decided to check out all the Greenstone (jade) stores while we were looking around and procured a few pieces to take home.

Once we were on the road, the day was marvelous. It was one of those days that you, the bike and the surroundings just click and you are in a Zen like state. Of course, we had a glorious tail wind with us the whole way so that made things easier. Leaving Hokitika, I was surprised at how pretty the road was, very flat but lots of nice ocean vies all the way to Kumara Junction. Stopped at a little roadside stand selling apricots and they just melted in our mouths.

Got into Greymouth in time for lunch, and, what else, meat pies!!! Did a little jaunt around the city; not a bad little place that was once a blue collar coal mining and railway city but becoming more prosperous. Had a little after lunch rest in the sun on the banks of the Grey river and decided that both are energy levels are best in the morning so wouldn’t leave this late again. The road ahead proved to be the most inspiring, wildly beautiful coastal roads I’ve been on yet. Once we got to Rapahoe, we had about 20-25km of beautiful coastal scenery with virtually vertical mountains to our eat just saturated with green vegetation . It almost looked like the treess were stacked on top of each other.

The surf was up and wild and we would ascend and then descend around several bluffs each turn giving us marvelous views of the sea with various boulders in their midst. Gave me some afternoon energy. The last 20 or so kms, we turned inland emerging at the sea again at Punkeiki. There, we quickly set up camp then walked back up the road to view the Pancake formations and the blowholes this area is famous for. Luckily, the crowds had thinned out and the DOC has done a wonderful job of creating these paths among the cliffs and rich plant life to maximize seeing all the sandstone formations in their glory. Unfortunately, it was not high tide, so we weren’t privy to a blowhole demonstration.

The evening had us chatting with a very spiritual cyclist, Peter, from Britain who is doing a meditation, cycling and wwoofing holiday. Interesting chap; a vegan who has travelled a lot of the world by bicycle. Again, a good source for which routes to take from here.

We are seriously contemplating taking a 3-4 day reprieve from cycling once we get up into the Nelson area. We need to get by bike derailleur fixed and that may take several days so we may rent a car up to the Collingwood area or somewhere around Golden Bay. Gordon and Libby will be at a motor camp near Collingwood so may meet up with them then. As the English fellow says. “ Life is so full of possibilities, I often don’t know which way to go until I come to the T in the road”.

from Penguins and Palm trees to Downpours in WEsTport; Steve
An early start to beat the weather front moving in, HA! You do not beat the weather in NZ! Headwinds from the get go. Surf and scenery occasionally peeked out from behind torrential rains today. Saw our first bit of "BC" coniferous forest at a stretch near Charleston.

Charleston, a cozy little place where we stopped for a second breakfast. Placed our "pin" on their world map as no other Victorian had done so. The map showed a very wide distribution of visitors, as has been our own experience.

The rains intensified and the wind was constant; at one point Steve could feel the water sloshing around in his shoes (protected by "bootie covers"). A decision had to be made; Cut the day short and go to WEsTport or continue another 50 km to Lyall and a DOC campground. Steve, having recovered from his collapse on the last wee hill (a 70+ m climb; mental fatigue, wind and rain), was suggesting to press on, Melissa made the call, WEsTport it would be.

So here we are listening to downpour after downpour, after our amazingly "dry" grocery run the deluge continues. Hopefully a good sign as days like this have been followed by dry days for us this trip. 3rd rain day out of 16 cycling days, so we cannot complain. The cycles have been tended to and are ready for the push towards Richmond 15 km south of Nelson where Melissa's bike repairs are arranged.

Day 18 Punakeiki to Westport; 60km [13 February 2006;PST] Mel
Okay, why are our shortest days the most challenging? Maybe that is what makes them short. Had heard it was going to rain later in the afternoon so got on the road by 7:30. I always find it difficult to climb after a meal and even though we had a light breakfast, the first climb to Perpendicular Point had my stomach churning a bit. We were rewarded with more beautiful ocean views, surf and lush green rainforest. Of course, in this country, you climb only to descend and climb again. The next climb was the longest in a succession of three ascents and descents. As we came down one hill, we saw a sign of “Warning, Penguin crossing”. It seems a little strange to have penguins and palm tress in the same location. Came to Charleston, a once prosperous gold mining town which now consisted of a pub and motor camp and stopped for breakfast and Mel’s much needed coffee. By this time, the rain was consistently coming down. Placed a call to the cycle shop in Richmond where they will order my parts so they’ll be there by the time we arrive. My rear derailleur cable is now wearing and the pieced together front derailleur has me a little worried.

After breakfast and calls, we set out on the road again concerned that if we tried to make Lyall (85km away we would have no services, little food and worse weather. Steve was feeling a little defeated, getting slower on the hills and just mentally not there. At one point, I stopped to wait, thinking he was right behind me and ended up waiting for about 5 minutes. It turned out he had walked his bike up the hill. I knew there was no way we could make Lyall. By this time, I was soaked to the bone, my feet were sloshing around in my shoes and I figured we’d make a short day of it; to Westport, stock up on food, get a dry room at a motor camp and have a leisurely afternoon; reorganizing, cleaning and drying gear and relaxing for a longish day tomorrow. And, that’s exactly what we did!

An easy 117 to Cousin Peter's Bar; Steve

OK not Peter's but the pub at Owen River. The walls adorned with Boar's heads and Red Deer, photos of past successful hunts and big trout. Just above a domain campground at the bend of the Owen river. A great place to fish and camp. The day started simply enough, another Motorcamp in WEsTport, a small coastal town of approximately 6000 people. A bustling little town with its own industries; a full service town. A hearty stick to your ribs oatmeal brekkie and we were off, the promise of a dry day before us. The morning was cool, the mists hung over the mountain tops.

We scooted out of town the "back way" past a convenience store where a group of men had gathered with "lunch buckets", reminding Steve of the "Carpenter Corner's" where the unemployed would stand awaiting the arrival of the "boss" who would select the lucky few to work that day. A solemn reminder of tougher days. The sun was breaking through as we left the flats and headed up the Buller river valley. A narrow ribbon of a road returning to a single lane with mirrors at the Hawkes crag; an overhang that had been pinned and bolted to hold in place. This road is somewhat heavier trafficked. The commercial driver's are good, honking well in advance so we can scoot off the road (where there is little room) or swinging well wide of us. A south island tour bus gave us our closest call living up to the reputation the smaller bus companies have earned here on the islands.

The valley is awesome, this looks and feels like fishing country, the river winding its way past gravel bar after gravel bar (Next time a fishing rod and time to use it!). Tackling the energy issue differently today; constant cycling = constant refueling; it seems to work. The ride is easier today, we will climb at a steady rate to 260 m over 117 km, the weather is good, clear and cool with a light tailwind. New Zealand’s longest swing bridge looks to soon be their "Hell's Gate" tourist trap. An interesting stop a short distance up the road is an earthquake "slip" where the top of a mtn has slid away during an earthquake. As we get closer to Murchison the countryside becomes drier and flatter. A stop in Murchison nets Melissa some e-mails from home, much appreciated after weeks on the road. We stock up for the push to Richmond and set out for the campground at Owens river, unsure if this will be our destination for the night.

Day 19 Westport to Owen River 117km [14 February 2006;PST] Mel
What a great day! was a little hesitant about today since we knew it would be a push distance wise but turned out pretty easy. Left the clouds behind in Westport and started climbing oh so gradually the Buller Gorge. A pretty amazing road, follows the Buller rive from Westport to past Owen River. The lower gorge was profuse with vegetation and we gentle rolled alongside the undulating river. At one point we passed a stretch of road (about 50m) called Hawkes Craig where, in the 1860s, part of the mountain was blasted away to make room for the road. The result is a one way overhang which is supported by bolting pins into the adjacent rock.

As the day progressed, the mist slowly lifted giving an eerie feel to the river and surrounding mountains. Both Steve and I were in the groove, cycling well with occasional stops to take in a great view of the river. We've decided to amen our diets a bit so we don't load up on meat pies at lunch then drag for an hour but instead, eat small bits at frequent stops. Seems to have worked a bit better for Steve. Steve is still lagging behind a bit on the hills and today expressed his frustration at my going ahead. Due to the increased truck traffic, he thought we should stay close and either slow down or bail when trucks pass. Well, patience is a virtue I am , unfortunately, a little short on. A few times on the journey today, there was a change from the windy, undulating roads to flat river valleys (around Berlins, Inanahara and Murchison). At these times, Steve gets into his aerobars and can pull at a pretty high speed. Sometimes, I have trouble drafting off him, he is so strong so I needn't complain about the hills.

At around Inangahua, we ran into an Englishman cycling in the opposite direction who crossed the road for a while for a chat. A very amiable, happy man who was in love with the country and unlike previous Englishmen we've met, not critical and condescending about the inhabitants. Seems to be mostly Germans and Englishmen we've met on the road so far.

Stopped short of Murchison to see some of the devastation still evident from the 1929 earthquake. Arrived in Murchison relaxed and energized so decided to do the extra 15-20km to Owen River so as to make our ride tomorrow shorter. Found a nice little Domain campground on the river and took our first plunge "au naturel" but currents and the cold water prevented us from spending too much time immersed. Thankfully, there are few sand flies here, but the wasps more than make up for it. Walked up the hill for a beer and nachos (it's amazing how Kiwis put pubs smack in the middle of nowhere) and back to camp for sleep.

Misty morning; Steve
It is 7 degrees! Can you believe it! All this time, $, and effort and it is only 7 degrees! We are only 260 m of elevation, near the top of the Buller Gorge so surprise is warranted. We are smack in the middle of a "NZ mist"; the clouds around the mountains as the locals like to call it. With all lights flashing we set off hoping the mist will lift and we will once more be basking in sunshine. We are soon past Gowan bridge and then the turn off to St Arnaud and the Nelson lakes. The decision is to cycle to Richmond post haste for cycle repairs. As we approached Hope Saddle we past a "cyclists hostel"; someone with a sense of humour, climb all this way and then up a steep gravel drive.

We start to see Weyerhauser clearcuts and more logging trucks. The downhill side was Steep and winding. We found ourselves chilled again as our descent was rapid. The landscape became quite pastoral as the road leveled out. A stop at a local fruit stand netted us some delicious plums. Melissa got her caffeine fix at Motupiko, where we also got news the house sale was completed. The sun had returned in full force, 34 degrees registering on the cycle computer. Spooner saddle loomed ahead, but with one less mental anguish, Steve was able to keep the pedals moving all the way up and over the top.

After rejoining Melissa at the top it was a long run down to Belgrove Pub, where we left our mark on NZ, purchasing a square foot of the pubs ceiling in which to write our name. We also got news that the part would not be in until Friday morning, argh, as Steve had failed to clarify its "pull". Arriving at Village bike shop we were made clear of our error and went off to sort out the plans for the next few days. Initially heading over Takaka hill to join Libby and Gordon, plans changed to a sedate cycle after AM repairs out to Marahau where we plan to spend a few rest days tramping and Kayaking Able Tasman park.

Day 20 Owen River to Richmond; 93km [15 February 2006;PST] Mel
Brrrh! Cold morning only 7 degrees when we woke up; we thought we left the cold weather in Victoria. We decided to bite the bullet, fire up the headlights and brave the cold. We would warm up soon enough as we were climbing again. I felt pretty sluggish as my morning coffee was missing. The first climb was the Hope Saddle, and sadly, Steve beat me to the top. We had our final views of the Alps. By this time, the mist had cleared and it was turning out to be a fine day. The descent from the saddle was exhilarating though we were still being vigilant about truck traffic and occasionally had to scoot off the road for them, What followed was a gradual descent through the Kohere valley, quite pastoral with lots of sheep and goats. At Motupiko, we spotted a bar at a crossroads and were able to get a coffee (yeah) and light snack. Had a nice little chat with a local while waiting for the bar to open. I love the openness, the trust and the ease of conversation most Kiwis have; part innocence, mostly genuineness,

Coffee was just what I needed to climb the next saddle which again, gave us beautiful views of the Nelson area and the Tasman Bay.

Bit of a longish climb in the heat but the grades were okay. Again, a great descent into an even more pastoral valley; this time littered with sheep farms, fruit trees and grapevines. Stopped at a beautiful pub/garden in Belgrove to use the phone. Steve was anxious to find out if both house deals went through. They had and we celebrated by having a ½ pint each and wrote our names on the ceiling (by donation to benefit a children’s charity) The owner was a delightful woman who was more than happy to provide information about the region and happily listened to our stories. From Belgrove, the road got increasingly busy as we headed towards the suburbs of Nelson.

Richmond would not have been my choice to visit but it happened to be where the bike shop was located. Found out the part would not be in until Friday so started planning our next move. My inclination was to rent a car so we could see more of the area, do some kayaking and then meet up with Gordon and Libby in Collingwood/Golden bay. Unfortunately, forgot to check with Steve to see if he was willing to drive because I certainly was not. We decided we would cycle out to Marahua and camp there. From there we could do some kayaking and some tramping in Abel Tasman park. This would still give us time to get to Picton mid week to catch the ferry to Wellington.

That sorted out, it was time to celebrate by going out for dinner at an Indian restaurant. Had a large spicy meal with a bottle of wine which was just enough to make us satiated and sleepy. However, did get an unexpected visitor, Ralph, before we retired. He had seen our bikes and wanted advice on terrain, distances and campgrounds as he was cycling the south island, counter clockwise. An intense little guy of 59, he had already done “coast to coast” (a run, cycle, kayak, cycle,run race from Christchurch to Greymouth) several times and was looking for a new challenge. Funny, he couldn’t understand why we chose to cycle NZ for our holidays. I couldn’t even start to explain….

Repair day; Steve
With the house deal complete, and Melissa's bike in the shop being worked on, all the pressure is off. We stayed in a cabin at the top 10 motor court in Richmond last night (security reasons). Met Ralph Gill from Duniden who is a triathlete and has done the Coast to Coast (run, cycle, kayak, run, kayak, cycle from Westport to Christchurch). He is 59 and this year cycling the SI for something to do. Next year he and his sons are planning a to run a marathon on the great wall of China; inspiring!

Our day got off to a slow start, dropped the bikes off for repair at Village cycles with Jim Matthews, a terrific fellow, watched our gear while we wandered Richmond doing errands and eating. Steve had given him incorrect info re the Front derailleur; arriving at 2 PM today, Jim corrected the info and had the part in from Auckland by 9 AM and repaired by 1 PM on a busy Friday; impressive!

Rolled out of Richmond around 1:30, heading up the inland route to Motueka. We stopped at Redwood Cellars Winery for tasting and picked up a bottle. One small climb (200 m) and we were on our way to Marahua. The area is vineyards and sheep farms, a pastoral mix along the way. We decided to take the coastal route passing through Kaiteriteri, a convoluted series of ups and downs, switchbacks and tight corners. Passing the beach in Kaiteriteri we were exposed to the serious tourism of the area; overwhelmingly crowded beaches! Once out of Kaiteriteri we dropped into a marsh flat where the remaining 4 km was flat. Arriving at 4:30 we got one of the few remaining campsites. The beach here is semi deserted. This is a center of activities for the AT park. We booked a water taxi for a tramp Saturday, the first of our 3 day rest.

Day 21 Richmond to Marahua; 63km [16 February 2006;PST] Mel
Very interesting day: got up at 5:20 after laying awake for close to an hour only to find the kitchen wouldn’t open for another two hours! Great to greet to day early even if it’s in an asphalted holiday park! We had bought a new cycle computer for me and Steve installed that and then suggested we clean the bikes to prepare for their service at the cycle shop.

Finally got to eat breakfast and were joined by the Kiwi, Ralph, who we had met the night before. Pretty amiable , interesting guy who is planning to run the “Great Wall of China” marathon for his 60th birthday next year.

We then headed into Richmond to do the obligatory shopping, internetting and coffee drinking while we waited for our bicycle repairs. By the time we headed out of there, I had quickly tired of the city, the concrete and the endless opprotunities for consuming and shopping. However, I was pretty impressed with the service at the bicycle shop; the only place, it seems, on the South Island that you can actually get Campognola parts. Not only that, they ordered them in and had my front derailleur fixed and new rear derailleur cable installed in less than 24 hours.

So a little after 1:00PM, we were on the road again. Steve got temporary amnesia and forgot how to turn left so he turned right into traffic as my heart started palpitating at an alarming rate!!!

Once I calmed down, we set out to Marahua by way of the Upper Moutere Valley. It was a beautiful countryside ride through vineyards, lovely manicured hills and still lots of evidence of forestry practices (including logging trucks.) I had wanted to check out a few wineries so we stopped at Redwood cellars and sampled a few of their fruit wines before settling on a surprisingly dry Figoula wine. The Moutere hill was pretty lame after what we’d been through but was a lovely descent through very quaint and old communities, especially Upper Moutere, vineyards and orchards were abundant. We thought we were pretty much home free when we arrived at Motueka but little did we know what was in store for us the next 16km or so. Turned off at Riwaka and decided to do the scenic coast route to Marahua through Kaiteriteri. As we approached what we thought was Kaiteriteri, we saw the most picturesque little town perched above the sea. However, it was a windy up and down climb through very narrow European style roads before we arrived to the most beautiful bluegreen sea in a lovely sandy bay. Even the throngs of tourists, overweight German men in Mediterranean sling shots, did not take away from the beauty! That section of road, however, was a cakewalk compared to the road leading from Kaiteriteri to Marahua. We basically inched our way along a cliffside; one hairpin turn followed by another until we reached the summit then rapidly descended to a large estuary and then the beautiful Tasman Bay.

Set up camp, got cleaned and had the obligatory beer or two while we planned our “rest day”. Ended the day with a yummy veg meal, fruit wine and an interesting conversation with a Maori cyclist. Did see out first Marae on the way over today; Riwake seems to have a fairly large Maori population. Would like to explore the Maori culture more when we are on the North Island. We shall see.

Able Tasman; Steve
3 days off the bike! We are halfway through the trip and have decided to have an extended rest weekend. Part of me misses the changes, part of me appreciates the break from 4 - 6 hours in the saddle. For recovery we are starting with a 4 hr hike in AT. We start the day with a boat ride to our drop off point, Tonga, c/w a few tour spots starting with split apple rock and including our first NZ penguins. I cannot blame Melissa for the hills as this adventure was my choice. The things that come to mind in traveling NZ is hills and switchbacks, this tramp had its share. The effort is definitely worth doing. Bay after bay of "rusty" beaches and small lagoons, rain forested coastline and breathtaking views. The path is well worn and clear, with many other tourists on it. For the most part we found the walk easy with few "crowded" situations. Trying to beat the tide at Bark Bay had us wading through one estuary. Melissa is a great sport and we did our best to stay dry, spooking trout fingerlings as we traversed the shallowest route. A light lunch and we were back tramping. Crossing the suspension bridge I stopped to take pictures including one of a kayaker (prosperous@hotmail.com) who requested a digital copy be mailed.

Day 22 Marahua Rest day [17 February 2006;PST] Mel
So, Steve says that he is not going up another hill with me on a rest day. However, he said he wanted to take a water taxi out to Abel Tasman and tramp back between Tongo and Torrent Bay on the Abel Tasman coastal track and, guess what, there were hills!!! Good way to see probably one of the most beautiful National Parks/coastal track in the world. Had an absolutely beautiful day, weather wise; it was warm at about 23 degrees and very little wind. Caught the water taxi at 9:00 AM. Very interesting launch system there have here. They load you on the boat which is on a trailer which is hitched to a tractor which drives down the road and onto the beach then backs you into the water .

On the way out, we passed the famous Split Apple Rock; a piece of granite cleaved in half which resembles a split apple and makes a very pretty picture. Also passed some blue penguins swimming. As we neared Tongo, we circumnavigated Tongo island which is home to a colony of seals. There were lots of little pups about 8 weeks old. So cute!!!

Got off at Tongo and hung out on the beach while I recovered from a queasy stomach. There are loads of people tramping as well as doing kayak adventures but that did not take away from the beauty of the area. Green lagoons, clear deep blue sea and golden beaches would dominate our views for much of the journey.

The track left the beach quickly and wound up and down mountain sides and depending on which side you were on, you would see lush forests with huge ferns and vines and the occasional tui singing or very dry low bush and very dried out trees. Quite a contrast. Descended to the beaches and bays several times, first at Baker’s Bay where we had a lovely picnic of sausage Maasdam cheese and fruit for lunch. In this section we crossed a suspension bridge which, amazingly, I did not freak out on. Managed to snap a photo of a kayaker below.

By the time we arrive at Torrent bay, we were hot, sandy and ready for a swim, The ocean promised all that it beckoned and revived and refreshed us and readied us for dinner at the pub.

On the water; Steve
A really great rest day! No hills, no hikes just sitting in a kayak watching the world drift by. Well, almost. The day started out right, preparations for the guided tour were simple, walk down to the beach get in the back of a kayak and watch Melissa paddle. Life doesn't get better. A relaxed paddle out to fisherman's island and morning tea.

Yeah, tea, fresh boiled, with cake and cookies; Kiwis kayak in style. We were off again with a light breeze on a flat sea. This was good for another hour until the offshore breeze picked up, choppy sea's that began to play havoc with our guides attempt (towing) to keep a Danish couple with the group. We ducked into a rocky bay where he requested Steve take over paddling with the woman, while her partner joined Melissa.

So much for a relaxed paddle! We went further north into the wind to a sandy beach just short of the head we needed to pass by before reaching Anchorage.
Lunch was another wonder c/w choc iced banana cake. An invitation for a short hike up a hill to oversee the head was offered by the guide. Steve declined choosing a nap instead. Melissa embraced the opportunity to hike! Following lunch the guide had a team meeting regarding the importance of kayaking safely around the head.

Melissa was put in control of her Kayak for what would prove to be a challenging attack on the head. The 3-5' swells were accompanied by squalls in the 20 to 30 knot range. Melissa did very well keeping her kayak away from shore but not too far out into the wind. Once around the head, with seas and wind coming from behind, we were surfing our way into Anchorage.

The battle into the wind was long, the fun rides with the wind too short. We were soon on the beach where in spite of all the food already provided Steve managed to down the last snack of the day. For doing such a great job Melissa was rewarded with a "cook's" night off, Steve treated her to BBQ steak c/w grilled onions and veggies. Ice cream will not be far behind!

Steve now needs to build the kayak he has been promising for years!

Day 23 Rest day Marahua [18 February 2006;PST] Mel
Wow: two rest days in a row!!! Didn’t realize how much I needed the reprieve from the bike. The ocean was so inviting, I just couldn’t wait to get in a kayak.

Had an absolutely wonderful day kayaking up the cost ending up in a place called, fittingly, Anchorage. Seas were calm all morning and had a lovely break for tea at “Fisherman’s Island” although there were no fish to speak of since fisherman dredged the channel of coral to provide easy access to fishing grounds almost 50 years ago. The blueness and clarity of the sea, the majesty of the coastline still enthralled me and no number of tourists can take away from it.

Seas picked up just before lunch as did the wind and Joby, the guide, was now towing the kayak of a couple of novice Dutch kayakers. Spent, he made the decision to switch partners, putting me in the front with Roland and Steve in the back with Roland's wife. Steve, the epitome of calm was a good tonic for a woman who was feeling stressed and challenged. Roland was not a bad paddler considering his lack of experience and we beached our kayaks at Te Pukatea in a glorious bay where we had a hearty lunch. Headed up a trail after lunch to see the headlands as well as glorious views of the bay. Joby seem preoccupied and asked me to steer the kayak that Roland and I were in. My gut reaction was, no, I don’t want that responsibility. I’m so used to Steve taking charge on the water. However, it was a challenge and I thought I had the skills so I accepted. It went pretty well despite the size of the swells and Roland’s inexperienced paddling. However, we made it around the headlands and had a great time surfing into Anchorage.


Hung out at Anchorage until the water taxi came to pick us up. A Wonderful day!

Fresh legs; Steve
A good stretch and a warm night's sleep, woke very refreshed, ready for the road. Today's goal, the Rai valley, 110 km away with only 3 hills. The first one a mere 200 m was just south of Marahua and provided a spectacular view of vineyards and farms in the Motueka region. Once through Motueka the road flattened and improved, Steve was able to use his areobars again.

We were soon in Richmond, at "Siefried" wineries to pick up a bottle of Pinot Gris for Jim Mathews of Village Cycles, the cycle mechanic who had given us 24 hr service to get us back on the road, and a sauvignon blanc for the wonderful dinner Melissa would prepare. After a few errands in Richmond we set off to find the cycle path that skirted Nelson. We met a Kiwi cyclist who became our guide, then recommended the "backpackers" we would end up spending the night at.

The waterfront of Nelson showed its affluence, two storied homes and newly built condominiums. Once past Nelson we stopped to pick up some additional water and poweraid. The tailwind we had enjoyed from Motueka had now become a headwind, so we once more took turns facing it down. As we turned inland towards our last two climbs the tailwind propelled us forward. With the temperature holding around 31 Celsius we were in for a hot climb.

Steve, constantly aware of his heat intolerance, chose a picnic area to have his first NZ skinny dip to cool down. With the core chilled, the system fueled up we attacked the Whangamoa saddle, 400 m. Luckily we were to have shade for the majority of the climb and the downhill side was fairly straight for a wonderful coast down. Logging is apparent here and Truck traffic was inevitable. Pausing to refresh ourselves before our last 200 m hill we recognized the folly of passing up on getting water at Hira. Cresting Rai saddle we drank the last of our fluids and prepared for the descent, remembering the "backpackers" would be a couple of km before Rai valley.

Upon arrival we met the proprietor who not only knew Jim of Village Cycles, but offered us fresh tomatoes, and milk for Melissa’s coffee. Settled in we dined on Cashew veggie pasta with fine wine. Life is grand!

Day 24 Marahua to Rai Valley; 110km [19 February 2006;PST] Mel
Interesting day: more to do with the Steve-Melissa dynamic than anything else. More of that later…

After two days of rest in a lovely spot, we were ready to get on the road again. Actually, it felt good to get on the bike. We decided to ride out the more direct way to Riwaka, the one everyone warned us against, and I found it very enjoyable. I’d much rather climb uphill at a steady pace then go up, down, around and up again. The sun was in full force by 8:30 so we knew it would be a hot day. The ride to Richmond was pretty good, lots of coastal road, followed by roads in the hill among the orchards and vineyards. Pretty picturesque, but compared to Abel Tasman….

We did stop at Seifried’s vineyard on the way in for Savignon Blanc for dinner and a bottle for Jim Matthews, the bicycle shop owner/mechanic who came through for us with parts and speedy service.

Was feeling a little tense about cycling through Nelson, being the biggest city we’d experienced since Christchurch but, luckily, they had a cycle path that circumvented the city. Ran into a local cyclist who gave us directions on how to get out of town. By this time, we were riding right on the water but the headwinds made cycling less enjoyable. The winds lessened as were turned inland. We new we had two big climbs and one small saddle and the heat of the day was getting stronger. Steve was starting to stop more frequently to cool down and refuel.

The first saddle was pretty inocuous but Steve lagged behind. Still getting used to each other’s cycling habits. Steve loves to get down in his aerobars and ride fast on the flats but sometimes it exhausts me, even when I’m drafting. Yet when we get to a hill, I’m always stopping to wait for him and I tend to get impatient. I’d rather get up the hill and be done with it than stop and rest part way up.

I guess I was spoiled in my Canada cross country trip that Rick and my (and to some extent Amy’s) cycling styles matched each others pretty well. I’m slowly learning the art of compromise.

The next saddle, the Whangamoa was not bad; the grades were okay but lost of tight corners and a fair amount of tourist and truck traffic. Scenery was not that interesting unless you are interested in clear cutting and reforestation (Weyerhauser and Fletcher Challenge are king here). Steve was overheating by this time so stopped at a river so he could have a plunge and cool off and regroup.

A silly interaction about a candy wrapper and chorizo escalated tempers and we both ended up pissed off and said things we shouldn’t have. By the time we got over the next saddle, the Rai, we had cooled down physically and emotionally and treated ourselves to a room.

Tailwinds to Picton; Steve
Another glorious warm morning in NZ! Slept in a bed again last night, a treat after a full day in the saddle. The morning run into Rai valley was all downhill, making yesterdays climbing start a distant memory.

When in Rai valley we got the news about Dad's bone cancer, our thoughts are with him in his new struggle. With the heavier load of health concerns for Dad it was a relief the riding was easy. Steve also was determined even more to enjoy every moment of our trip.

The ride to Havelock was flat by NZ standards, with a tailwind as well. In Havelock, green mussel capital of the world, we indulged in a seafood platter for two. It was excellent, smoked mussels, snapper, and the largest capers I have seen; a delightful high protein brunch.

We met Brian Farrant who was running Cycle tours in NZ and had a couple from Pender Island with him today. While chatting with him we also met a couple from Edmonton who were doing a bus tour. From Havelock it was a short tailwind ride to Picton, c/w a few small hills to climb along the way. Arrival in Picton was quickly followed by loading onto the interislander for the three hour trip to Wellington.

It was a pretty calm sailing, a very picturesque run down the channel from Picton, with only a few whitecaps as we crossed the Cook Channel. Wellington harbour soon came into view. We have made it to the North Island and are starting the 2nd half of our adventure.

Day 25 Rai valley to Wellington; 75km [20 February 2006;PST] Mel
Well, it’s been 4 days since this day and things are starting to sink in and fall into place. We had been trying to figure out what to do with our last 2-3 weeks as far as busing and cycling went but that turned out to be a moot point.

Left Rai Valley before 8:00Am and it was a cold but sunny morning. We had decided to go the short but pretty route to Picton so we knew we had no pressures; we would take the ferry that was available when we got to Picton. Rai Valley is a small town that once was a bit of a frontier/farming town. Stopped to get email and got the sad news from Steph (Steve’s daughter) that Steve’s Dad, Johnny, was just diagnosed with bone cancer. I thought the prognosis would not be good but tried to remain optimistic.

Was a easy ride out from Rai Valley to Havelock and spent most of the time :in my head” thinking about Johnny. Got into Havelock by 9:30. Havelock is a cute former logging town at the end of the Marlborough sounds. It seems that green mussels and tourist trips up the sound have replaced logging as the major industry. Took a tour around the harbour on our bikes then set our sights on a second brekkie of smoked snapper,mussels and crackers at a charming little care. Delicious breakfast and as we lingered in the sun were approached by a bicycle tour operator who was leading some Pender Island, B.C. residents on a trip. Havelock seems to have turned itself into a bit of an artsy town so I did some exploring before we departed.

So glad we decided to take the Queen Charlotte road into Picton instead of going through Blenhein. We did miss the vineyards but we rewarded with an amazing ride. As we left, there were great views of the Havelock harbour and views of the sound were pervasive. If there were any complaints it was the cacophony of the circadias in the dense vegetation became overwhelming at times. The roads were quiet and spectacular even though in some places, became perilously close to the edge of a cliff.